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A raised bed is a box. The box is easy. The decisions that make or break the garden — wood choice, soil mix, location, drainage — those are where to spend your thinking time.
Standard size for a first raised bed: 4 ft × 8 ft × 12″ deep. The 4 ft width matters — you want to reach the middle from either side without stepping into the bed. Length is flexible. Depth of 12″ is the minimum for most vegetables; root crops like carrots want 18″+.
Wood choice is the biggest decision. Cedar lasts 7–10 years untreated and is the standard. Standard pressure-treated lumber is safe for vegetable beds in modern formulations (no more arsenic since 2003), but some people still avoid it for edibles. Redwood is great if you can get it locally. Untreated softwoods (pine, spruce) rot fast — 2–3 years.
Location: 6+ hours of direct sun for most vegetables. Near a hose. Out of the way of dogs and kids' play areas. Level enough that water doesn't pool on one side.
Shop the supply side here. The big-ticket stuff and the brand-restricted items, we'll point you local further down.
Mark out the footprint with stakes and string. Mow the existing grass as short as possible. Lay 2–3 layers of cardboard over the entire footprint (this kills grass underneath without herbicide). Wet the cardboard down so it stays in place while you work.
For a 4×8 bed with two 2×10 boards stacked (about 19″ deep), you need: 4 long boards (8 ft), 4 short boards (4 ft), and 4 corner posts (22″ long — 19″ for bed height + 3″ in the ground). Cut everything before assembly so your measurements stay consistent.
Build it upside down or on its side. Attach a long board to a corner post with 3 deck screws (top, middle, bottom). Add the matching short board. Repeat for the other corner of the short board, then the other long board. Stack the second course of boards on top of the first and screw them to the same corner posts. You now have a four-sided box.
Move the assembled bed onto the cardboard. Level it — check both directions with a 4-ft level. Add or remove soil under the corners to get it close. Bed doesn't need to be perfectly level, but obvious tilt looks bad and drains unevenly.
Hardware cloth (1/2″ mesh) stapled to the bottom of the frame keeps voles, moles, and gophers out — important if you have them in your area. Landscape fabric helps slow weeds from creeping in but isn't strictly necessary if you cardboarded well.
Don't use just topsoil — it compacts and drains poorly. Mix 1/3 topsoil, 1/3 compost, 1/3 aeration (vermiculite, perlite, or coarse sand). Fill to about 2″ from the top to leave room for mulching. Water deeply before planting. Settle for a few days if you can, then plant.
Lumber, soil, and bulk materials don't ship well — they're heavy, oversized, and expensive to deliver. Local hardware and garden centers carry what you need at prices online can't match once shipping is factored in.
Hire help if: you want a built-in stone or brick raised bed (masonry job); you're building a series of beds over 100 sq ft total (the labor adds up); the site is sloped enough to need real grading or terracing; or you have mobility issues that make digging and heavy lifting hard. Many landscapers will build a bed system and fill it for less than people expect.
We support local hardware stores — we don't replace them.
If your project needs hands-on help, expert advice, or a brand we can't ship, we'll point you to a store that can.
Why it's worth the trip →Most hardware stores can do more than you think. If we can't help you, the folks down the street probably can — just ask at the counter.
The stores we send you to are local and independently run — often for generations, the kind of place where someone behind the counter knows the regulars. We don't own them. We just think they deserve the foot traffic. They can put most of what we sell on their next truck. Ask there before you check out here.
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