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A pressure washer is a tool you can use well or use to ruin things. On concrete, the wrong tip held too close leaves permanent etching that no amount of sealing will hide. The right setup makes the whole driveway look new in a couple of hours.
Pressure washers are rated in PSI (force) and GPM (water volume). Both matter. For driveways: 2,500–3,500 PSI is the sweet spot. Less and you fight the dirt; more and you risk damage. Volume (GPM) does as much cleaning as pressure — that's why pro units use 4+ GPM.
The tip you choose controls the spray angle and how aggressive the cleaning is. 0° tips are red — pencil-thin, intensely aggressive, never use on concrete except for tiny spot cleaning at a distance. 15° (yellow), 25° (green), and 40° (white) are the workhorses. Start wider (40°) and step down only if needed.
A surface cleaner attachment — the round disc that hovers over the surface and spins two jets underneath — is the difference between a 4-hour driveway and an 8-hour one with streaks. If you're doing more than 200 sq ft, get one.
Shop the supply side here. The big-ticket stuff and the brand-restricted items, we'll point you local further down.
Oil and grease spots: apply degreaser, let sit 10 minutes, scrub with a stiff brush. Mildew or moss: apply mildewcide or a 1:1 mix of bleach and water (test small first), let sit 15 minutes. Pre-treating before pressure washing does most of the cleaning — the washer just rinses it away.
Plants get plastic sheeting or a heavy rinse with the hose first (wet plants tolerate detergent better than dry). Cover any outdoor electrical outlets. Move the cars.
Hose to washer, hose on full. Start the engine (or plug in if electric), squeeze the trigger to bleed air through, then point at a non-critical spot to verify tip and pressure. Start with a 40° wide tip until you know what you're working with.
If you have a surface cleaner attachment, swap it in. Walk it slowly across the driveway in slightly overlapping rows — same speed for the whole pass to avoid streaks. The surface cleaner gives uniform pressure across the whole disc, which is why the result is even instead of striped.
Edges, transitions, and stained spots need the spray wand. Hold the tip 8–12″ from the surface — not closer. Sweep in long, smooth motions. Stop motion = etching. Keep moving.
After cleaning, give the whole driveway a final rinse with the wand on a wide tip from a distance. Let it dry fully (24+ hours of warm weather) before sealing if you're sealing. If not, you're done.
Pressure washers are heavy, the gas units are loud, and the right tip kit can make or break the job. Local stores let you rent (skip ownership for once-a-year jobs) or buy with someone who can match the right unit to your driveway size.
Hire a pressure washing service if: the driveway has heavy mildew over a large area (commercial chemicals work better and pros do this in their sleep); you have stamped or decorative concrete (specialized technique to avoid damaging the texture and sealer); you have pavers with sand joints that need to be re-sanded after washing; or it's a large commercial parking area. Pros bring 4-5 GPM rigs that make this work way faster than rental units.
We support local hardware stores — we don't replace them.
If your project needs hands-on help, expert advice, or a brand we can't ship, we'll point you to a store that can.
Why it's worth the trip →Most hardware stores can do more than you think. If we can't help you, the folks down the street probably can — just ask at the counter.
The stores we send you to are local and independently run — often for generations, the kind of place where someone behind the counter knows the regulars. We don't own them. We just think they deserve the foot traffic. They can put most of what we sell on their next truck. Ask there before you check out here.
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