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Winterizing isn't one job — it's a list of small jobs done in October that prevent big problems in January. None of them are hard. All of them matter. Here's the order.
The cost of skipping winterization is real and predictable: burst pipes (thousands), ice dams (thousands more), heating bills 20–40% higher than they need to be, and HVAC equipment failures from running dirty and overworked.
Most of the work is just shutting things off, draining things down, and sealing things up. You're not building anything new — you're closing down systems for the season the way a boat gets winterized.
Climate matters. The checklist below is for cold-winter climates (below 32°F overnight regularly). If you're in the South or Pacific coast, you skip most of the freeze-prevention items but still do the HVAC, weatherstripping, and gutter steps.
Shop the supply side here. The big-ticket stuff and the brand-restricted items, we'll point you local further down.
Find the indoor shutoff valve for each outdoor hose bib (usually in the basement near where the bib enters the wall). Close it. Open the outdoor bib to drain any remaining water. Leave the bib open over winter. Cover with a foam dome cap. If you have a frost-free hose bib, you still need to disconnect the hose — a connected hose holds water against the seal and lets it freeze.
Shut off the irrigation supply and the backflow preventer. Connect a compressor to the system blowout port (most systems have one). Open each zone one at a time and run air through it until only mist comes out — no water. This prevents the polyethylene pipes from cracking when residual water freezes.
Last leaves down, gutters cleared, downspouts checked. Blocked gutters cause ice dams — water backs up under the shingles when it can't drain off the roof, leaks into the attic, runs down the walls. One afternoon of gutter work prevents a season of damage.
Binoculars from the ground if you don't want to be up there. Look for missing or curled shingles, flashing problems around chimneys and vents, branches touching the roof. If you have a wood-burning fireplace, get the chimney inspected and swept every 1–3 years depending on use.
Change the furnace filter (new every heating season, more often if you have pets or allergies). If it's been more than 2 years, get a tune-up — cleaning, blower check, gas pressure check. Test the thermostat. Test the CO detector and replace its batteries. The CO detector is the most important device in the house during heating season.
Walk the perimeter of the house. Caulk any cracks where pipes, wires, or vents enter the wall. Replace failing weatherstripping on doors and windows. Add foam outlet gaskets on exterior walls (cheap and surprisingly effective). Insulate any exposed pipes — especially in crawl spaces, garages, and unheated basements.
Everything on the winterize list is the kind of thing that the local hardware store has stacked by the front door in October. Picking it up beats the 3-day shipping wait when temperatures drop unexpectedly.
Call professionals for: HVAC tune-ups (an annual service from a licensed tech catches problems that a filter swap doesn't); chimney sweeping if you have a wood fireplace; roof or chimney repairs; and irrigation blowouts if you don't own a compressor with the right CFM. These are routine pro jobs that prevent expensive emergencies.
We support local hardware stores — we don't replace them.
If your project needs hands-on help, expert advice, or a brand we can't ship, we'll point you to a store that can.
Why it's worth the trip →Most hardware stores can do more than you think. If we can't help you, the folks down the street probably can — just ask at the counter.
The stores we send you to are local and independently run — often for generations, the kind of place where someone behind the counter knows the regulars. We don't own them. We just think they deserve the foot traffic. They can put most of what we sell on their next truck. Ask there before you check out here.
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