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How to Choose a Door Lock & Deadbolt
The lock on your front door is the single cheapest security upgrade you can make — and the one most people get wrong. Pick the right grade, the right keying, and the right strike hardware, and a $40 deadbolt will outlast the door it’s bolted to.
The short answer
For any exterior door, install a Grade 1 or Grade 2 single-cylinder deadbolt with a 1-inch throw bolt, backed by a reinforced strike plate and 3-inch screws. Add a smart deadbolt if you want keyless entry and remote control; skip double-cylinder locks on doors you’d need to escape through in a fire.
Deadbolt vs. keyed knob: what actually locks the door
A spring-latch on a keyed entry knob is a convenience lock — it keeps a door shut, but the angled latch can be shimmed or forced with a hard shoulder. The real security comes from a deadbolt, a solid steel bolt that a burglar can’t push back without a key or the interior thumbturn. Every exterior door should have one. The keyed knob or lever is there for the handle and the door’s daytime latch; the deadbolt is what you throw at night and when you leave.
Most people buy them together as a matched set so the finish and keyway line up. Whether you’re replacing a worn entry set or building out a whole door from scratch, browse the full range of door locks and door hardware to keep the levers, hinges, and bolt in the same family.
Security grades: what Grade 1, 2, and 3 mean
Locks are rated by ANSI/BHMA, the industry standard, into three grades based on how many strikes, turns, and pounds of force they survive in testing. This is the number that actually matters — ignore the marketing and read the grade on the box.
| Grade | Tested for | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Grade 1 | 250,000 cycles, 10 door strikes, highest force resistance | Front and back exterior doors; anywhere security is the priority |
| Grade 2 | 150,000 cycles, 5 strikes, moderate force | Good residential exterior doors on a budget |
| Grade 3 | 100,000 cycles, 2 strikes, light force | Interior or low-risk doors only — not a primary entry |
Tip: Look for a bolt with a 1-inch throw and a hardened anti-saw pin. A short 5/8-inch throw barely engages the frame and defeats the whole point.
Single, double, or smart: pick the cylinder type
Once you’ve settled on a grade, the cylinder decides how you operate the lock from each side.
- Single-cylinder — key outside, thumbturn inside. The default for nearly every home. Fast to lock from within, no key needed to get out.
- Double-cylinder — key on both sides. Stops a burglar from reaching through broken glass to flip the turn, but it’s a fire hazard if you can’t find the key in the dark. Many local codes restrict them on primary exits.
- Smart / electronic — keypad, fingerprint, or app control from brands like Schlage Encode, Kwikset Halo, Yale Assure, and August. Great for keyless entry, guest codes, and knowing the door locked itself. Most still take a physical key as backup.
Smart deadbolts are the fastest-growing category for a reason: no more hiding a key under the mat, and you can hand a contractor a temporary code instead of a spare. If a video doorbell is on your list too, it’s worth wiring both into one app — see our doorbell accessories to round out the entry.
Keying, rekeying, and matching locks
If you just moved in, rekey every exterior lock the first week — you have no idea how many keys are floating around. Kwikset’s SmartKey and Schlage’s SecureKey systems let you rekey the cylinder yourself in under a minute without pulling the lock apart. When you buy multiple deadbolts, ask to have them keyed alike so one key runs the whole house.
Worn tumblers, a loose thumbturn, or a bolt that sticks are usually fixable with lock parts and accessories rather than a full replacement. Keep a couple of spare keys cut and stored off-site, and grab a set of key rings to keep the family’s copies straight.
The part everyone forgets: the strike and the frame
A Grade 1 deadbolt is only as strong as the wood it bolts into. The factory strike plate is usually held by two 3/4-inch screws that bite into nothing but the thin door jamb — one solid kick splits the frame regardless of how good the lock is. This is the highest-value, lowest-cost fix in home security.
- Swap the flimsy strike for a heavy-gauge reinforcement strike plate with a box that captures the whole bolt.
- Use 3-inch screws that reach past the jamb into the wall stud behind it.
- Check the door’s hinges too — long screws in the top hinge stiffen the whole slab.
- Seal the gap while you’re in there with fresh weatherstripping so the door sits tight against the strike.
Pick by door
FRONT DOOR
Grade 1 single-cylinder deadbolt, 1-inch throw, matched entry handleset, reinforced strike, 3-inch screws. Add a smart lock if you want keypad codes and auto-lock.
SIDE OR GLASS DOOR
Grade 2 minimum. If glass is within arm’s reach of the turn, consider a smart keypad instead of a double-cylinder to avoid the fire-escape problem.
SHED, GATE, OR LOCKER
Skip the deadbolt — a weather-rated padlock or keyed auxiliary lock is the right tool for detached and low-traffic openings.
Shop the whole project
Everything to lock down a door
From Grade 1 deadbolts to the reinforcement hardware that makes them count — all from authorized manufacturer channels, the trusted brands your neighborhood hardware store carries. See our guarantee.
Frequently asked questions
What’s the difference between a Grade 1 and Grade 2 deadbolt?
Grade 1 survives more test cycles and door strikes and resists more force, so it’s the choice for a primary exterior door. Grade 2 is still solid residential security at a lower price. Grade 3 should be limited to interior or low-risk doors.
Are smart deadbolts secure enough for a front door?
Yes. A reputable smart deadbolt from Schlage, Kwikset, or Yale carries the same ANSI grade as its mechanical version and adds keypad codes, auto-lock, and remote control. Most keep a physical key cylinder as backup, so a dead battery never locks you out.
Should I get a double-cylinder deadbolt for a door with glass?
Be careful. A double-cylinder needs a key on both sides, which stops someone from reaching through broken glass, but it can trap you in a fire if the key isn’t handy. Many local codes restrict them on exits. A smart keypad lock is often the safer answer.
Can I rekey a lock myself instead of replacing it?
Often, yes. Kwikset SmartKey and Schlage SecureKey systems let you rekey the cylinder at home in about a minute with the tool that comes in the box, no locksmith needed. If the lock is worn out or damaged, replace it instead.
What’s the single best upgrade for door security?
Replace the flimsy factory strike plate with a reinforced one and drive 3-inch screws through the jamb into the wall stud. It costs a few dollars and stops the frame from splitting under a kick, which is how most forced entries actually happen.
Choosing between grades, cylinders, and smart features is easier with hardware in hand — walk into your local independent hardware store and test the feel of the thumbturn before you buy. Not sure which grade fits your door? Ask us here and we’ll point you to the right lock.
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