How to Choose a Dog Crate or Kennel

A crate isn’t a cage — it’s a den, a housetraining tool, and the safest place your dog can ride, sleep, or wait out a thunderstorm. Get the size and style right and it becomes your dog’s favorite room. Get it wrong and you’ve bought an expensive laundry hamper your dog refuses to enter.

Start with the size, not the style

Size is the one thing that’s hard to fix later, so nail it first. Measure your dog from nose to base of tail for length, and from the floor to the top of the head (sitting up) for height. Add two to four inches to each number. That’s your crate’s interior, not the box on the shelf — check the manufacturer’s stated inside dimensions.

The instinct to “size up for comfort’’ backfires during housetraining. Dogs won’t soil where they sleep, but give a puppy a crate the size of a studio apartment and it will happily potty in one corner and nap in the other. That’s exactly why the divider panel matters.

Buying for a puppy? Get the crate that fits the adult dog and use the included divider to shrink it as they grow. One purchase, not four.

The four crate types, and who each is for

Every crate on the market is a variation on four designs. Match the design to your dog’s temperament and where the crate will live.

• Wire crates — the housetraining workhorse. Great airflow, they fold flat, most include a divider and a slide-out pan for easy cleanup. Best for puppies and calm adult dogs. Brands like MidWest Homes (iCrate) and Frisco own this category.
• Plastic / airline crates — enclosed, den-like, and the only style approved for cargo air travel. The solid walls calm anxious and noise-sensitive dogs. Petmate Vari Kennel is the classic here.
• Soft-sided crates — lightweight fabric-and-mesh, made for travel, camping, and already-trained dogs. Never for chewers or dogs left unsupervised — they’ll unzip or shred their way out.
• Heavy-duty steel crates — welded tubing, escape-proof latches, chew-resistant. For powerful breeds, escape artists, and dogs with real separation anxiety. Brands like Impact and Gunner build these.

Material, latches, and the details that fail first

The difference between a crate that lasts one dog and one that lasts three is in the hardware. Look at the door latches — a single spring-clip latch is fine for a mellow dog but a smart, motivated dog will paw it open. Two-point or slide-bolt latches solve that. Check the pan: a plastic tray cracks and warps; a galvanized steel pan survives years of chewing and cleaning.

Wherever the crate lives, the floor underneath it takes a beating from the pan and any accidents that escape it. A washable mat or a sheet of floor protection under the crate saves your hardwood and your security deposit. Keep a bottle of enzymatic stain and odor remover and your usual household cleaners within reach for the inevitable early-training accidents.

Where the crate lives changes what you buy

An indoor training crate and an outdoor kennel run are different animals. Indoors, prioritize a quiet folding wire crate that blends into the room — some now come as end-table “furniture” crates with a wood top. For a dog that spends daytime hours outside, you want a covered, shaded run: galvanized panels or fencing anchored on a solid surface, with a roof for shade and rain. Never leave a dog in a wire or metal crate in direct summer sun.

Whatever you set up, stock the space like a room. A chew-proof bed, a spill-resistant water bowl from the pet supplies aisle, and a stash of training treats turn the crate from a time-out box into a place your dog chooses to go.

Pick by your dog

Frequently asked questions

The right crate is the one your dog walks into on its own — so measure carefully and match the style to your dog’s personality. Want to see one in person or feel the latch before you buy? Your local independent hardware store can help, and you can always ask us here.