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A running toilet is the most expensive thing you're ignoring. It's also one of the easiest things to fix — usually a $5 part and 15 minutes. Here's the diagnostic order.
A toilet that runs intermittently or constantly is wasting somewhere between 50 and 300 gallons a day. That's a noticeable bump on your water bill and, depending on where you live, a real environmental problem too.
There are exactly four things that cause a toilet to run: a bad flapper, a stuck chain, a misadjusted float, or a worn fill valve. You can diagnose all four in five minutes with the tank lid off.
If the toilet is more than 25 years old and you're already inside the tank, just replace the guts — flapper, fill valve, flush valve. The whole kit is $25 and lasts another 20 years.
Shop the supply side here. The big-ticket stuff and the brand-restricted items, we'll point you local further down.
Set the lid on a folded towel on the floor (porcelain is brittle — cracking the lid is the most expensive mistake in this whole job). Flush. Watch what happens. Then wait. Most running toilets reveal the problem within 60 seconds of watching.
Push the flapper down with your finger. Does the running stop? Bad flapper. They harden and warp with age, especially with chlorine tablets in the tank (don't use those — they destroy flappers and seals). Replace the flapper — about $5.
Too long, it gets stuck under the flapper, holding it open. Too short, the flapper can't close. The chain should have about 1/2″ of slack when the flapper is closed. Adjust the chain length at the flush lever.
The water level in the tank should be about 1″ below the top of the overflow tube. Too high, water runs constantly into the overflow tube. Adjust the float — there's a screw or clip on top of the fill valve. Lower the float, water stops running over.
If the fill valve hisses, won't shut off, or fills very slowly, replace it. Shut the water off at the wall, flush, sponge out the remaining water, unscrew the supply line and the nut underneath the tank, lift the old valve out, drop the new one in. 15 minutes.
Flush and watch the tank refill. The fill valve should shut off cleanly. Wait 10 minutes without flushing — the water level should be exactly where it was. If it's dropped, the flapper still leaks. Dye-test: drop food coloring in the tank, wait an hour without flushing, check the bowl — if the bowl is tinted, the flapper isn't sealing.
Toilet parts seem universal until they're not. Bringing the old part to the store saves a return trip every time.
Call a plumber if: water is leaking from the base of the toilet (wax ring or cracked porcelain — both serious); the tank itself is cracked; the floor around the toilet feels soft (subfloor damage); or you've replaced the flapper and fill valve twice and it still runs. At that point something structural is wrong.
We support local hardware stores — we don't replace them.
If your project needs hands-on help, expert advice, or a brand we can't ship, we'll point you to a store that can.
Why it's worth the trip →Most hardware stores can do more than you think. If we can't help you, the folks down the street probably can — just ask at the counter.
The stores we send you to are local and independently run — often for generations, the kind of place where someone behind the counter knows the regulars. We don't own them. We just think they deserve the foot traffic. They can put most of what we sell on their next truck. Ask there before you check out here.
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