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The job itself is straightforward. The problem is access — you're working upside down inside a dark cabinet with your face two inches from a drain. Plan for the access problem and the rest is easy.
Replacing a faucet is a parts-swap, not a plumbing job. You're disconnecting two supply lines and three or four mounting nuts, then putting it back together in reverse. The tricky part is reaching the nuts holding the old faucet to the sink — they're behind the basin, above your head, and usually corroded.
If you're upgrading to a pull-down or pull-out sprayer, double-check the hole configuration on your sink. Most kitchen sinks have 3 or 4 holes; most bathroom sinks have 1 or 3. Faucets are sold to match — but the deck plate matters too.
Buy the supply lines fresh. They're $8 each. The ones from 15 years ago are not what you want to put back on.
Shop the supply side here. The big-ticket stuff and the brand-restricted items, we'll point you local further down.
Close both shutoff valves under the sink. Open the faucet to release pressure and let the lines drain into a bucket. If the shutoffs won't close or are weeping, this is the time to replace them — don't fight a leaky shutoff.
Adjustable wrench on the supply nut at the shutoff. Loosen, unscrew by hand. Repeat for the other side. Have your bucket ready — there's always a cup or two of water still in the line.
This is where the basin wrench earns its name. Reach up behind the basin, hook it on the mounting nut, and turn counterclockwise. If the nut won't budge, spray penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes. Pull the old faucet up and out from above.
Old putty, mineral buildup, gasket residue — scrape it all off with a plastic putty knife (metal scratches the sink). The new gasket needs a clean surface.
Drop the supply lines and the threaded shanks through the mounting holes from above. Have someone hold the faucet level while you go back under and tighten the mounting hardware. Hand-tight first, then snug with the basin wrench. Don't crank.
Connect supply lines to the shutoffs — PTFE tape on the threads, hand-tight plus a quarter turn. Turn the water on slowly. Open the faucet (remove the aerator first) and let it run for 30 seconds to flush debris. Reinstall the aerator. Check every joint for two minutes with a dry paper towel.
Faucets are the perfect example of something that looks fine online and feels wrong in your hand. The weight, the feel of the lever, the actual finish — they all matter, and a picture doesn't show them.
Call a plumber if: your shutoff valves don't work and you can't kill the local supply; you have a copper supply line that needs soldering or a galvanized line that's seized; you're switching from a 3-hole to 1-hole faucet and need the sink modified; or the existing faucet is so corroded the mounting nuts won't budge with penetrating oil and heat. Some jobs are 30 minutes for a plumber and three hours of swearing for you.
We support local hardware stores — we don't replace them.
If your project needs hands-on help, expert advice, or a brand we can't ship, we'll point you to a store that can.
Why it's worth the trip →Most hardware stores can do more than you think. If we can't help you, the folks down the street probably can — just ask at the counter.
The stores we send you to are local and independently run — often for generations, the kind of place where someone behind the counter knows the regulars. We don't own them. We just think they deserve the foot traffic. They can put most of what we sell on their next truck. Ask there before you check out here.
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