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How to Choose Drill Bits
A drill is only as good as the bit chucked into it. Pick the wrong material or point angle and you’ll wander off your mark, burn the tip blue, or split the very thing you’re trying to build — so the small choice at the end of the drill matters more than the tool itself.
The short answer
For everyday wood, metal, and plastic, buy a titanium-coated (TiN) high-speed-steel twist bit set with a 135° split point. Step up to cobalt for hardened steel and stainless, carbide-tipped masonry bits for brick and concrete, and dedicated spade or Forstner bits for large, clean holes in wood. Match the bit to the material first, the coating second.
Start with the material you’re drilling
Every good bit decision begins with the same question: what are you making a hole in? Wood, metal, masonry, tile, and plastic each want a different tip geometry and a different steel. A general-purpose twist drill bit will muddle through most household jobs, but it will overheat in stainless and shatter against concrete. Buying by material saves bits — and knuckles.
If you only own one thing, make it a graduated drill bit set that covers 1/16″ up to 3/8″ or 1/2″. That single index handles the overwhelming majority of pilot holes, wall anchors, and hardware installs a homeowner will ever face.
Bit types, decoded
The name on the package tells you the job. Here’s how the common families sort out.
| Bit type | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Twist (jobber) | Wood, metal, plastic | The default all-rounder; buy a 135° split point so it won’t skate |
| Brad-point | Clean holes in wood | Center spur bites exactly where you mark; no wandering |
| Spade (paddle) | Fast, rough 3/8–1-1/2″ holes in wood | Cheap and fast for framing and running cable |
| Forstner | Flat-bottom holes, hinge cups | Cleanest of all in wood; best in a drill press |
| Masonry (carbide-tipped) | Brick, block, concrete | Use with hammer drill; carbide tip survives grit |
| Hole saw | Large-diameter holes, doorknobs, pipe | Cuts a ring, not a full plug — efficient for big bores |
| Step (unibit) | Sheet metal, thin plastic | One bit, many sizes; no jagged edges in thin stock |
Tip: for holes 3/4″ and larger in wood, reach for hole saws or a self-feed bit rather than pushing a twist bit past its comfort zone.
Steel and coating: what actually lasts
Once you’ve got the shape right, the metal and finish decide how long the bit stays sharp. This is where you either save money or waste it.
- High-speed steel (HSS): the baseline. Fine for wood, plastic, and mild steel. Cheapest to replace.
- Titanium-coated (TiN): HSS with a gold-colored coating that runs cooler and lasts several times longer. The sweet spot for most DIYers.
- Black oxide: corrosion-resistant coating that holds a little lubrication; good value for general metal work.
- Cobalt (M35/M42): alloyed all the way through, not just coated. The only thing that reliably drills stainless and hardened steel without cooking. Brands like DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch, and Irwin all sell cobalt lines.
- Carbide-tipped: mandatory for masonry and tile; brittle but grit-proof.
A coating extends the life of a good geometry — it will not rescue a cheap bit with a bad point. Spend on cobalt only where you truly need it; TiN twist bits handle the rest.
Shanks, chucks, and the driving vs. drilling split
The back end of the bit matters too. Round shanks slip in a standard three-jaw keyless chuck; 1/4″ hex shanks lock into an impact driver so they won’t spin. If you’re installing screws rather than boring holes, you want driver bits (Phillips, square, Torx) rather than drill bits — different tool, different job. Keep the two organized so you’re not hunting mid-project.
For big timber work — deck posts, ledgers, running electrical — auger and self-feed bits pull themselves through the wood so you don’t have to lean on the drill. Pair the right bit with a capable cordless drill or impact driver and the work goes twice as fast.
Sharp bits, and keeping them that way
A dull bit is dangerous: it grabs, wanders, and generates the heat that ruins the temper. Back off the pressure, let the bit do the cutting, and use a few drops of cutting oil in metal. When edges finally go, a bench-mounted sharpener or a sharpening stone can bring twist bits back to life before you replace them. Store bits in an index, not a drawer, so tips don’t chip against each other.
Pick by job
HANGING & ANCHORS
A titanium twist set plus a couple of carbide masonry bits covers hanging shelves, TVs, and blinds in both drywall and brick. Match the bit size to your anchor.
WOODWORKING
Brad-point and Forstner bits give the clean, splinter-free holes that furniture and cabinet work demand. Add spade bits for rough utility holes.
METAL & STAINLESS
Go cobalt, run slow, and keep it lubricated. A step bit handles sheet metal and electrical boxes without tearing the edges.
Shop the whole project
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Frequently asked questions
What drill bits should every homeowner own?
A graduated titanium-coated high-speed-steel twist set from 1/16 inch to 1/2 inch covers most jobs, plus a few carbide-tipped masonry bits for brick and concrete and a set of driver bits for screws. That trio handles the vast majority of household drilling and hardware installs.
What is the difference between titanium and cobalt drill bits?
Titanium bits are high-speed steel with a thin coating that runs cooler and lasts longer, and they are great value for wood, plastic, and mild steel. Cobalt bits are alloyed all the way through, so they keep cutting in stainless and hardened steel where a coating would wear off. Buy cobalt only when you actually drill hard metals.
Can I use regular drill bits on concrete or brick?
No. Concrete, brick, and block need carbide-tipped masonry bits, ideally run in a hammer drill. A standard twist bit will overheat and dull almost immediately against the aggregate and may shatter.
Why does my drill bit keep wandering off the mark?
Most often the point angle is wrong or the bit is dull. Choose a 135-degree split-point bit that bites immediately, or use a brad-point bit in wood, and give it a small center-punch divot to start. Slowing down and easing off the pressure also helps.
How do I stop drill bits from overheating?
Run at a slower speed, ease off the pressure, and let the bit clear its chips instead of forcing it. In metal, a few drops of cutting oil keep the tip cool and preserve the hardened edge. Heat that turns the tip blue has already ruined the temper.
Buy the bit that matches your material and you’ll drill cleaner, faster, and safer for years. Not sure which set fits your projects? Your local independent hardware store can put the right bit in your hand today, or ask us here and we’ll point you to it.
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